Learn Triathlon from the best (DVDs)
Cycling
Training with a power meter
Submitted by admin on Tue, 07/13/2010 - 12:04 This is an excerpt from Cycling Fast. It's published with permission of Human Kinetics.
"Training with a power meter is the current gold standard for measuring improvement in performance and setting standardized goals for workouts. A well-calibrated power meter provides an absolute measurement (in watts) of the power generated by the cyclist.
For comparison purposes, wattage is paired with body weight, normally taken in kilograms. For example, a 140-pound (64 kg) rider who produces 300 watts can be said to produce 4.69 watts per kilogram (W/kg; that is, 300 W divided by 64 kg). Similarly, a 170-pound (77 kg) rider who wants to achieve the same 4.69 watts per kilogram needs to produce 361 watts. Table 4.6 provides a list of the target wattage needed for each category of racing.
When you first start training and racing, owning a power meter may not be necessary. During the early stages of learning to race, you can perform workouts with a heart rate monitor and cadence sensor, or you can just ride by feel. These methods may be sufficient to help you show large gains in fitness. As time passes, gains in fitness may diminish without the use of outside methods for workout management, such as a power meter. Incremental improvements in cycling are known as “dialing it in.” Power meters are an excellent tool for helping athletes dial in their fitness as they mature in the sport. To see what a power meter looks like, refer to figure 4.3
Purchasing a power meter is an economic investment. You may find power meters that cost around US$400, but some may cost as much as US$2,500. Only a few companies develop power meters. Some power meters use the bottom bracket as the source for extrapolating power, others use the rear wheel hub to extrapolate power, while still others use wind velocity and rider drag to extrapolate power. Higher price does not necessarily mean a better power meter. Explore the available options by talking with other riders who own power meters, local bike shops, and your coach. This will help you find out which system works for you.
Power Training Zones
Knowing your sustained power (wattage) at a select time interval will give you guidelines for specific workouts. Standard time periods include 5 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes, and 20 minutes. Using a 20-minute sustained power test is the most common way to determine training zones. The five zones identified in table 4.7 will provide an effective platform for structured training.
The test described in this section will estimate your 20-minute sustained power (SP). Your 20-minute SP number may increase throughout the season as your fitness increases, or the way you achieve your 20-minute SP may change throughout the season (e.g., at 95 rpm instead of 85 rpm). Although not covered in this book, if you want to fine-tune your fitness, you can perform 5-second, 1-minute, and 5-minute SP tests. With this information, you can choose workouts that target and cover these time periods. For example, you can use sprint workouts to improve 5-second SP or intense on-the-bike strength workouts to improve 1-minute SP.
You must be fully rested before performing the 20-minute test. Make sure you read the instruction manual for your power meter to determine how to mark each interval; you can then review and record the data and wattages later. The best conditions for performing the test are on a flat road (or a road with a slight rise) with steady wind and limited traffic, traffic lights, and stop signs. A closed park road with few pedestrians is ideal. The test can also be performed on a stationary trainer (if the trainer provides even resistance throughout the duration of testing).
Before performing any maximum efforts, you need to be in good physical health as confirmed by a medical professional.
Test for 20-Minute Sustained Power
Warm-Up: 20 Minutes
Ride steady and easy in the warm-up with heart rates at less than 75 percent of maximum for 30 minutes. Near the end of the warm-up, perform one 5-minute (1 × 5 min) effort at 95 percent of what you estimate to be your time trial heart rate. Then perform active recovery—rolling at cadences between 70-85 rpm at <75 % of maximum heart rate (MHR)—for 5 minutes. (A discussion of MHR follows in the next section.) Next, perform three 1-minute (3 × 1 min) high-cadence (>100 rpm) efforts in the easiest gear. Perform active recovery for 1 minute between the 1-minute intervals. After the three 1-minute efforts are complete, perform active recovery for 4 minutes.
Actual Test: 20 Minutes
Mark interval and start a 20-minute all-out time trial effort with cadence at 85 to 95 rpm. For the first 3 minutes, ease into a time trial pace.
Record all test conditions, including the course, weather, wind, and temperature. Also record your diet for the day before and the morning of the test. During the test, you need to remain mentally focused. Pacing during testing is crucial—meaning building by increasing power throughout, as you would in intervals. Attempt to maintain the highest average watts for the test period.
Review your test using your power meter software. Label the test interval for the appropriate time period. The average wattage for the 20-minute time period is your SP for that time period."
"Training with a power meter is the current gold standard for measuring improvement in performance and setting standardized goals for workouts. A well-calibrated power meter provides an absolute measurement (in watts) of the power generated by the cyclist.
For comparison purposes, wattage is paired with body weight, normally taken in kilograms. For example, a 140-pound (64 kg) rider who produces 300 watts can be said to produce 4.69 watts per kilogram (W/kg; that is, 300 W divided by 64 kg). Similarly, a 170-pound (77 kg) rider who wants to achieve the same 4.69 watts per kilogram needs to produce 361 watts. Table 4.6 provides a list of the target wattage needed for each category of racing.
When you first start training and racing, owning a power meter may not be necessary. During the early stages of learning to race, you can perform workouts with a heart rate monitor and cadence sensor, or you can just ride by feel. These methods may be sufficient to help you show large gains in fitness. As time passes, gains in fitness may diminish without the use of outside methods for workout management, such as a power meter. Incremental improvements in cycling are known as “dialing it in.” Power meters are an excellent tool for helping athletes dial in their fitness as they mature in the sport. To see what a power meter looks like, refer to figure 4.3
Purchasing a power meter is an economic investment. You may find power meters that cost around US$400, but some may cost as much as US$2,500. Only a few companies develop power meters. Some power meters use the bottom bracket as the source for extrapolating power, others use the rear wheel hub to extrapolate power, while still others use wind velocity and rider drag to extrapolate power. Higher price does not necessarily mean a better power meter. Explore the available options by talking with other riders who own power meters, local bike shops, and your coach. This will help you find out which system works for you.
Power Training Zones
Knowing your sustained power (wattage) at a select time interval will give you guidelines for specific workouts. Standard time periods include 5 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes, and 20 minutes. Using a 20-minute sustained power test is the most common way to determine training zones. The five zones identified in table 4.7 will provide an effective platform for structured training.
The test described in this section will estimate your 20-minute sustained power (SP). Your 20-minute SP number may increase throughout the season as your fitness increases, or the way you achieve your 20-minute SP may change throughout the season (e.g., at 95 rpm instead of 85 rpm). Although not covered in this book, if you want to fine-tune your fitness, you can perform 5-second, 1-minute, and 5-minute SP tests. With this information, you can choose workouts that target and cover these time periods. For example, you can use sprint workouts to improve 5-second SP or intense on-the-bike strength workouts to improve 1-minute SP.
You must be fully rested before performing the 20-minute test. Make sure you read the instruction manual for your power meter to determine how to mark each interval; you can then review and record the data and wattages later. The best conditions for performing the test are on a flat road (or a road with a slight rise) with steady wind and limited traffic, traffic lights, and stop signs. A closed park road with few pedestrians is ideal. The test can also be performed on a stationary trainer (if the trainer provides even resistance throughout the duration of testing).
Before performing any maximum efforts, you need to be in good physical health as confirmed by a medical professional.
Test for 20-Minute Sustained Power
Warm-Up: 20 Minutes
Ride steady and easy in the warm-up with heart rates at less than 75 percent of maximum for 30 minutes. Near the end of the warm-up, perform one 5-minute (1 × 5 min) effort at 95 percent of what you estimate to be your time trial heart rate. Then perform active recovery—rolling at cadences between 70-85 rpm at <75 % of maximum heart rate (MHR)—for 5 minutes. (A discussion of MHR follows in the next section.) Next, perform three 1-minute (3 × 1 min) high-cadence (>100 rpm) efforts in the easiest gear. Perform active recovery for 1 minute between the 1-minute intervals. After the three 1-minute efforts are complete, perform active recovery for 4 minutes.
Actual Test: 20 Minutes
Mark interval and start a 20-minute all-out time trial effort with cadence at 85 to 95 rpm. For the first 3 minutes, ease into a time trial pace.
Record all test conditions, including the course, weather, wind, and temperature. Also record your diet for the day before and the morning of the test. During the test, you need to remain mentally focused. Pacing during testing is crucial—meaning building by increasing power throughout, as you would in intervals. Attempt to maintain the highest average watts for the test period.
Review your test using your power meter software. Label the test interval for the appropriate time period. The average wattage for the 20-minute time period is your SP for that time period."
Cycling expert explains strategies for getting faster
Submitted by admin on Fri, 07/09/2010 - 14:16 This is an excerpt from Cycling Fast. It's published with permission of Human Kinetics.
"Climbs and descents make or break cycling races, according to cycling coach Robert Panzera. In his upcoming book, Cycling Fast (Human Kinetics, May 2010), Panzera covers hills and all elements that can make a cyclist faster, from conditioning to nutrition and key skills.
Panzera says even small climbs make a difference the closer a cyclist gets to the finish line. 'Climbs are additive, meaning a 200-foot gain in elevation may not seem like much in the first few miles, but near the finish, it can seem like a mountain.' He advises cyclists to take special note of hills toward the end of the race because these hills split the race into two groups—the leading group going for the win and the chasers trying to pick up the remaining places. In Cycling Fast, Panzera offers 10 tactics for managing hills and staying in the lead:
Cycling Fast covers the latest information on new high-tech racing frames, training with a power meter and heart rate monitor, and coordinating tactics as part of a team. Readers can learn how to periodize training and use the numerous tips, charts, and checklists to maximize effort."
"Climbs and descents make or break cycling races, according to cycling coach Robert Panzera. In his upcoming book, Cycling Fast (Human Kinetics, May 2010), Panzera covers hills and all elements that can make a cyclist faster, from conditioning to nutrition and key skills.
Panzera says even small climbs make a difference the closer a cyclist gets to the finish line. 'Climbs are additive, meaning a 200-foot gain in elevation may not seem like much in the first few miles, but near the finish, it can seem like a mountain.' He advises cyclists to take special note of hills toward the end of the race because these hills split the race into two groups—the leading group going for the win and the chasers trying to pick up the remaining places. In Cycling Fast, Panzera offers 10 tactics for managing hills and staying in the lead:
- 1. Be near the front for corners that are followed immediately by hills. 'This helps you prevent being gapped,' explains Panzera.
- 2. Shift to easier gears before approaching hills. 'This prevents dropping the chain off the front chainrings when shifting from the big front ring to the small front ring,' he notes. “Quickly go around riders who drop their chains.”
- 3. Close gaps on hills immediately, but with an even, steady pace. 'Once the group starts riding away on a hill, it is nearly impossible to bring them back,' Panzera warns.
- 4. Keep the pace high over the crest of the hill, because the leaders will increase speed faster than the riders at the tail of the group.
- 5. Relax and breathe deeply to control heart rate on climbs.
- 6. Dig deep to stay in contact on shorter climbs. 'Once a group clears the top, it is difficult to catch up on the descent,' says Panzera.
- 7. On longer climbs, ride at a consistent pace that prevents overexertion.
- 8. Always start climbs near the front. If the pace becomes too fast, cyclists will be able to drop through the pack and still recover without losing contact with the pack.
- 9. Hills are a good place to attack. 'Know the hill’s distance and location in the course before setting out on an attack or covering an attack by a competitor,' advises Panzera.
- 10. Try to descend near the front, but not on the front. Being near the front, as opposed to the back, gives cyclists a greater probability of avoiding crashes.
Cycling Fast covers the latest information on new high-tech racing frames, training with a power meter and heart rate monitor, and coordinating tactics as part of a team. Readers can learn how to periodize training and use the numerous tips, charts, and checklists to maximize effort."
"Toy syndrome" affects cyclists
Submitted by admin on Fri, 07/02/2010 - 12:46 This is an excerpt from Mastering Cycling. It's published with permission of Human Kinetics.
"Most cyclists learned to ride bikes as children and haven't revisited the basic skills of bicycling as adults. "There appears to be a notion among many cyclists that an activity they learned as children requires no further instruction," says John Howard, three-time Olympian and 18-time national masters cycling champion. "This 'toy syndrome' continues to affect cycling."
Howard stresses the importance of cyclists' developing more power, comfort, and safety for riding on the streets in traffic, negotiating turns and terrain, and dealing with road hazards, including other cyclists. "Equipment has evolved, speeds have increased, and the rigors of competition have tightened, but the basic techniques aren't being taught to masters cyclists," Howard says. In his upcoming book, Mastering Cycling (Human Kinetics, July 2010), Howard addresses the top technical skills that are essential for every cyclist.
Climbing in the saddle
Fast, efficient climbing requires cyclists to recognize the precise moment when action is needed and to know what action to take. "Delaying the decision too long will result in the loss of both speed and momentum," Howard says. Gear selection and shifting sequence depend on the cyclist's available power, fitness level, and pitch of the climb. The length of the climb also dictates the approach. "If you are starting to climb a long, gradual hill, use a gear that is comfortable and lets you maintain an rpm of about 90," Howard explains. "When your cadence begins to slow down, downshift to an easier gear. If you are going to stand on the pedals, you may want to shift up to a higher gear so that you don't waste energy spinning."
Climbing out of the saddle
When climbing out of the saddle, the goal is to maintain a consistent heart rate and increase forward momentum. "Gravity will win the battle if you surge on the pedals, pull and push your upper body forward or backward, or worse, pull your upper body up and down, disengaging the important core muscles," Howard says. "The primary force in moving the bicycle forward is generated at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions of the cranks." A common mistake among less-experienced riders is mistiming the thrust of the cranks. Power is dissipated at the top and bottom of the stroke, which is essentially a dead zone when out of the saddle.
Cornering
Cornering requires the ability to quickly judge the elements of a turn, including sloping, curvature, traction, and other factors that limit speed. A bicycle cannot be steered around a curve but must be leaned into the turn. "A cyclist must estimate how much lean is needed to counteract the physical forces that want to project the cyclist and the bicycle in a straight line," Howard says. "The amount of lean depends on the speed traveled into the turn, the tightness of the turn, and the degree and direction of the road bank."
Braking
Two approaches to braking exist. One stops the bike quickly to avoid a collision or other hazard, and the other consists of feathering the brakes to slow or stop forward progress. Feathering is the practice of applying light, even pressure on the front and rear brakes and is used in most circumstances. The hot stop should be used when there is no choice but to stop. When hitting the breaks, cyclists should slip to the rear of the saddle to adjust the center of gravity. "The action is accompanied by an approximate bias of two-thirds on the front brake and one-third on the rear brake," Howard explains. "Cyclists will have very little time to slip back in the saddle and apply the front brakes. When it is done properly, the bike can stop in half the distance that it would normally take."
Shifting
Maintaining a smooth speed with an efficient cadence prevents overtaxing the muscles and cardiorespiratory system. "Whether you are a competitive or a recreational cyclist, your cadence needs to be as comfortable and smooth as possible, never jerky," Howard says. He advises shifting one gear at a time and avoiding big gear jumps between ranges. "Cyclists should listen to their bikes and avoid crossing the chain over radical angles, such as the big chain ring and the larger cog in the rear. This will save wear and tear on the drive train and the knees," Howard adds."
"Most cyclists learned to ride bikes as children and haven't revisited the basic skills of bicycling as adults. "There appears to be a notion among many cyclists that an activity they learned as children requires no further instruction," says John Howard, three-time Olympian and 18-time national masters cycling champion. "This 'toy syndrome' continues to affect cycling."
Howard stresses the importance of cyclists' developing more power, comfort, and safety for riding on the streets in traffic, negotiating turns and terrain, and dealing with road hazards, including other cyclists. "Equipment has evolved, speeds have increased, and the rigors of competition have tightened, but the basic techniques aren't being taught to masters cyclists," Howard says. In his upcoming book, Mastering Cycling (Human Kinetics, July 2010), Howard addresses the top technical skills that are essential for every cyclist.
Climbing in the saddle
Fast, efficient climbing requires cyclists to recognize the precise moment when action is needed and to know what action to take. "Delaying the decision too long will result in the loss of both speed and momentum," Howard says. Gear selection and shifting sequence depend on the cyclist's available power, fitness level, and pitch of the climb. The length of the climb also dictates the approach. "If you are starting to climb a long, gradual hill, use a gear that is comfortable and lets you maintain an rpm of about 90," Howard explains. "When your cadence begins to slow down, downshift to an easier gear. If you are going to stand on the pedals, you may want to shift up to a higher gear so that you don't waste energy spinning."
Climbing out of the saddle
When climbing out of the saddle, the goal is to maintain a consistent heart rate and increase forward momentum. "Gravity will win the battle if you surge on the pedals, pull and push your upper body forward or backward, or worse, pull your upper body up and down, disengaging the important core muscles," Howard says. "The primary force in moving the bicycle forward is generated at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions of the cranks." A common mistake among less-experienced riders is mistiming the thrust of the cranks. Power is dissipated at the top and bottom of the stroke, which is essentially a dead zone when out of the saddle.
Cornering
Cornering requires the ability to quickly judge the elements of a turn, including sloping, curvature, traction, and other factors that limit speed. A bicycle cannot be steered around a curve but must be leaned into the turn. "A cyclist must estimate how much lean is needed to counteract the physical forces that want to project the cyclist and the bicycle in a straight line," Howard says. "The amount of lean depends on the speed traveled into the turn, the tightness of the turn, and the degree and direction of the road bank."
Braking
Two approaches to braking exist. One stops the bike quickly to avoid a collision or other hazard, and the other consists of feathering the brakes to slow or stop forward progress. Feathering is the practice of applying light, even pressure on the front and rear brakes and is used in most circumstances. The hot stop should be used when there is no choice but to stop. When hitting the breaks, cyclists should slip to the rear of the saddle to adjust the center of gravity. "The action is accompanied by an approximate bias of two-thirds on the front brake and one-third on the rear brake," Howard explains. "Cyclists will have very little time to slip back in the saddle and apply the front brakes. When it is done properly, the bike can stop in half the distance that it would normally take."
Shifting
Maintaining a smooth speed with an efficient cadence prevents overtaxing the muscles and cardiorespiratory system. "Whether you are a competitive or a recreational cyclist, your cadence needs to be as comfortable and smooth as possible, never jerky," Howard says. He advises shifting one gear at a time and avoiding big gear jumps between ranges. "Cyclists should listen to their bikes and avoid crossing the chain over radical angles, such as the big chain ring and the larger cog in the rear. This will save wear and tear on the drive train and the knees," Howard adds."
Four ways to use a heart rate monitor
Submitted by admin on Mon, 05/03/2010 - 14:21 This is a podcast from an author of The Runner's Edge. It's published with permission of Human Kinetics. Click on the title of this entry to hear the podcast.
Cycling expert explains strategies for getting faster
Submitted by admin on Tue, 04/20/2010 - 15:29 Offers 10 tactics for maximizing hills
This is an excerpt from Cycling Fast. It's published with permission of Human Kinetics.
Climbs and descents make or break cycling races, according to cycling coach Robert Panzera. In his upcoming book, Cycling Fast (Human Kinetics, June 2010), Panzera covers hills and all elements that can make a cyclist faster, from conditioning to nutrition and key skills.
Panzera says even small climbs make a difference the closer a cyclist gets to the finish line. "Climbs are additive, meaning a 200-foot gain in elevation may not seem like much in the first few miles, but near the finish, it can seem like a mountain." He advises cyclists to take special note of hills toward the end of the race because these hills split the race into two groups-the leading group going for the win and the chasers trying to pick up the remaining places. In Cycling Fast, Panzera offers 10 tactics for managing hills and staying in the lead:
Cycling Fast covers the latest information on new high-tech racing frames, training with a power meter and heart rate monitor, and coordinating tactics as part of a team. Readers can learn how to periodize training and use the numerous tips, charts, and checklists to maximize effort.
This is an excerpt from Cycling Fast. It's published with permission of Human Kinetics.
Climbs and descents make or break cycling races, according to cycling coach Robert Panzera. In his upcoming book, Cycling Fast (Human Kinetics, June 2010), Panzera covers hills and all elements that can make a cyclist faster, from conditioning to nutrition and key skills.
Panzera says even small climbs make a difference the closer a cyclist gets to the finish line. "Climbs are additive, meaning a 200-foot gain in elevation may not seem like much in the first few miles, but near the finish, it can seem like a mountain." He advises cyclists to take special note of hills toward the end of the race because these hills split the race into two groups-the leading group going for the win and the chasers trying to pick up the remaining places. In Cycling Fast, Panzera offers 10 tactics for managing hills and staying in the lead:
- Be near the front for corners that are followed immediately by hills. "This helps you prevent being gapped," explains Panzera.
- Shift to easier gears before approaching hills. "This prevents dropping the chain off the front chainrings when shifting from the big front ring to the small front ring," he notes. "Quickly go around riders who drop their chains."
- Close gaps on hills immediately, but with an even, steady pace. "Once the group starts riding away on a hill, it is nearly impossible to bring them back," Panzera warns.
- Keep the pace high over the crest of the hill, because the leaders will increase speed faster than the riders at the tail of the group.
- Relax and breathe deeply to control heart rate on climbs.
- Dig deep to stay in contact on shorter climbs. "Once a group clears the top, it is difficult to catch up on the descent," says Panzera.
- On longer climbs, ride at a consistent pace that prevents overexertion.
- Always start climbs near the front. If the pace becomes too fast, cyclists will be able to drop through the pack and still recover without losing contact with the pack.
- Hills are a good place to attack. "Know the hill's distance and location in the course before setting out on an attack or covering an attack by a competitor," advises Panzera.
- Try to descend near the front, but not on the front. Being near the front, as opposed to the back, gives cyclists a greater probability of avoiding crashes.
Cycling Fast covers the latest information on new high-tech racing frames, training with a power meter and heart rate monitor, and coordinating tactics as part of a team. Readers can learn how to periodize training and use the numerous tips, charts, and checklists to maximize effort.
Triathlon Training DVD series
Submitted by admin on Thu, 12/31/2009 - 19:57
I've reviewed this DVD series, "The Ultimate Training, Technique, and Strategy Series for Triathletes" and recommend you check it out. Most are taught by Clark Campbell, former Professional Triathlete and University of Kansas Swimming Coach.
The Bike, The Run, The Swim DVDs will take you through the nuances of technique and then go over detailed training plans in depth.
"The Core Strength: Pilates for Triathletes" is a superb teaching of core strength taught and flexibility by June Quick, Certified Pilates Instructor, licensed Physical Therapist, Certified Athletic Trainer, and Stanford University Swimming consultant. She explains the movements that are demonstrated by a beginner and pro triathlete, how to make some more advanced movements when you're ready, and pre-hab to prevent common athletic injuries.
If you're new to triathlon and learn better visually, this is the package you want. It's like having a coach start you out. If you've been around the track a few times, pun intended, you may still pick up some technique and training pointers.
Championship Productions forwarded these to me for review and I'm glad they. I had not heard of them but these are some really good training resources.
A different kind of triathlon
Submitted by admin on Wed, 12/16/2009 - 19:17 "FAIRBANKS -- The organizer of a proposed 100-mile combined ski, bicycle and foot race in the White Mountains National Recreation Area has already gotten more than 50 people to sign up." From the Anchorage Daily News. Click here to read more.
Aerodynamics and bike fit for speed
Submitted by admin on Mon, 08/24/2009 - 19:53 Some practical wisdom on endurance sports nutrition from the book is "The woman Triathlete", reprinted with permission by Human Kinetics.
"How fast you finish the cycling portion of a race depends on the power you’re able to produce during the ride. Ultimately, power output depends on just two variables: force and speed. Very simply, it depends on how hard you push and how fast you
pedal. The three forces you need
to overcome to move forward are air resistance, rolling resistance,
and, on climbs, gravity. Because gravity and rolling resistance depend
on weight, most cyclists try to minimize weight. This is most easily
achieved by using a lighter bike and componentry, but these come at a
high cost. Rolling resistance also depends on the road surface, as well
as the make, thickness, and pressure of your tires. The biggest
resistive force, however, is air resistance, which is dependent on your
speed and frontal surface area. At 20 miles per hour on a flat road
(gravity is zero), rolling resistance makes up less than 25 percent of
the total resistance, while air resistance makes up more than 75
percent. The most effective way to reduce air resistance is to draft
behind (or even next to) another rider. For a triathlete without the
option to draft (drafting is not permitted in most amateur triathlon
racing), reducing frontal area has the greatest effect on performance.
Aerodynamic equipment--such as bike frames with tear-shaped tubes,
deep-dish wheels and discs, narrow water bottles, tight skin suits, and
streamlined helmets--can reduce some of the frontal area. However, a
rider’s body is by far the biggest obstacle. Bike fit for a triathlete
is therefore optimized with biomechanical fit and aerodynamic
positioning; many triathletes even choose to ride a less comfortable
setup in favor of better aerodynamics. Keep in mind, though, that a
comfortable setup that incorporates aerodynamics will usually result in
increased power output. Because road cyclists are allowed to draft,
they tend to place greater importance on biomechanical fit, comfort,
and handling of the bike than triathletes do, but triathletes would be
well served in finding a comfortable setup.
"How fast you finish the cycling portion of a race depends on the power you’re able to produce during the ride. Ultimately, power output depends on just two variables: force and speed. Very simply, it depends on how hard you push and how fast you
pedal. The three forces you need
to overcome to move forward are air resistance, rolling resistance,
and, on climbs, gravity. Because gravity and rolling resistance depend
on weight, most cyclists try to minimize weight. This is most easily
achieved by using a lighter bike and componentry, but these come at a
high cost. Rolling resistance also depends on the road surface, as well
as the make, thickness, and pressure of your tires. The biggest
resistive force, however, is air resistance, which is dependent on your
speed and frontal surface area. At 20 miles per hour on a flat road
(gravity is zero), rolling resistance makes up less than 25 percent of
the total resistance, while air resistance makes up more than 75
percent. The most effective way to reduce air resistance is to draft
behind (or even next to) another rider. For a triathlete without the
option to draft (drafting is not permitted in most amateur triathlon
racing), reducing frontal area has the greatest effect on performance.
Aerodynamic equipment--such as bike frames with tear-shaped tubes,
deep-dish wheels and discs, narrow water bottles, tight skin suits, and
streamlined helmets--can reduce some of the frontal area. However, a
rider’s body is by far the biggest obstacle. Bike fit for a triathlete
is therefore optimized with biomechanical fit and aerodynamic
positioning; many triathletes even choose to ride a less comfortable
setup in favor of better aerodynamics. Keep in mind, though, that a
comfortable setup that incorporates aerodynamics will usually result in
increased power output. Because road cyclists are allowed to draft,
they tend to place greater importance on biomechanical fit, comfort,
and handling of the bike than triathletes do, but triathletes would be
well served in finding a comfortable setup.
It is relatively
easy to adjust a traditional bike fit to a more aerodynamic fit. The
most cost-effective investment is a set of aerobars. Better yet, using
an ergo-stem along with your aerobars will allow you to more completely
adjust the position of your handlebars. A second seat post and saddle
combination will allow you to quickly move back and forth between a
road position and a time trial position with just one bike frame.
Because a traditional road bike fit often results in better (i.e.,
easier) handling of the bike, it is useful to be able to switch back
and forth between setups. You can convert your bike to match your
workout--aerodynamic position for solo efforts and time trials or a
traditional bike fit for group rides and hilly routes. Before you
adjust your bike fit to a more aerodynamic position, measure (and mark
with tape) how your bike is set up. It is always a good idea to have
the option of going back to a position that already works for you. Once
you have the necessary measurements, move your saddle forward one or
two centimeters. Because this reduces the distance from your saddle to
the bottom bracket, you may also need to move the saddle up (usually
about half the distance that you moved it forward). Now check your
reach by leaning forward into the aerobars. The front of your shoulders
should be aligned vertically with the back of your elbows. This
position allows you to rely on the skeletal rather than muscular
support of your upper arms for the weight of the upper body. Your
comfort and flexibility should determine the height of the handlebars
relative to the saddle. For example, if your hamstrings feel tight,
your handlebars need to be moved higher. Most likely, your cleat
position and your saddle tilt can remain in the same position as they
were in before.
No matter how aerodynamic you want to be,
injury prevention and comfort should be your main concerns with regard
to fit. Your knee rotates through many cycles on a ride--in just one
hour of racing at 90 revolutions per minute, you are completing 5,400
rotations per leg! If your bike is not properly fit to your
biomechanics, you will be at high risk for injury. Also, if you are
uncomfortable on the bike, you may become distracted by repetitive
twinges instead of being able to focus on your effort. Because a proper
bike fit is critical, you should be fit at a reputable triathlon or
cycling shop, by a certified fit specialist, or by a coach or physical
therapist who has experience in bike fit. A proper bike fit should
always include setting up your cleats (on the bottom of your shoes) in
the proper position: If your knee is restricted to the wrong range
through each pedal cycle, you’re almost guaranteed injury. Athletes
looking to be very competitive in triathlon should consider being fit
by a professional fit specialist who will take into account every
aspect of their biomechanics when adjusting their position. Look for
someone who specializes in triathlon-specific fitting, and expect to
pay $50 to $100 for the service (and anywhere from $200 to $1,000 for
services that include power output measurement or wind tunnel testing).
Even with a good bike fit, you may find that you are
uncomfortable on your saddle at times. If you experience this, consider
the following:
- Never wear anything under your cycling shorts. The shorts are designed so that there are no seams in sensitive areas. Wearing undergarments adds those seams back between you and your saddle. Also, make sure you buy women’s shorts to ensure a proper fit.
- Wash your shorts after each ride to avoid infections.
- Use a chamois cream or ointment to prevent saddle sores and chafing. Apply it to both your body and the shorts for maximum protection.
- Use a women-specific saddle. They are designed to support the wider sit bones of a woman’s body and provide increased comfort."
Top 3 bike selection steps for triathletes
Submitted by admin on Wed, 08/12/2009 - 20:21 Having the right bike for you and having it dialed in can make a lot of difference. It will make the ride performance better all around. It can also help prevent injuries associated with cycling and cycling position. This excellent excerpt from Triathlon Workout Planner by John Mora reprinted with permission from Human Kinetics.
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Selecting a bike
"If you’ve only recently been bitten by the triathlon bug, the very first, most obvious symptom is an inexplicable need to visit the nearest bicycle shop. Once you’re there, your symptoms might progress toward writing out a check for a thousand bucks, or worse, taking out the plastic. Hold on there. You might not need to shell out four figures at this point.
If you currently own a bicycle and just want to finish your first triathlon, you might be able to get by with what you have until you’re sure you’ll be a lifelong multisport maniac. It’s not uncommon for beginners to use a beat-up old road bike or a fat-tire mountain bike for their first event, and there’s nothing wrong with that. However, if you don’t have a bicycle (or can’t borrow one), then you have no alternative but to look into buying a triathlon bicycle. Also, if you’ve done a few triathlons and are looking for some advice on making your first serious multisport bicycle purchase, the following sections provide some guidance for you.
Tri-Bikes, Step by Step
Making your entry into the complicated world of cycling equipment can be expensive and intimidating. Somewhere among the fancy designs, shiny components, and black rubber is what you need. Without some basic knowledge, a good understanding of your current needs, and a clear vision of what lurks on your triathlon horizon, there’s a strong chance that you’ll purchase the wrong bicycle.
Fear not. Here’s a step-by-step guide to making that first big multisport purchase, with advice from triathlon bicycle dealers, manufacturers, and coaches. Add to that some tales of woe from professionals who can tell you (through their experience) what not to do when you’re making that big purchase, and you have no reason to panic.
Step 1: Set a Budget
Walking into a bicycle shop with no plan can mean walking away with no money. Although most bike dealers will not deliberately take advantage of an eager first-time buyer, by setting a budget you are taking the first step toward controlling a situation that might seem uncontrollable.
A cautionary word about overemphasizing equipment is warranted. “Your best bet is buying a reasonably priced, entry-level bike with a clip-on aero bar,” says cycling coach Bob Langan. “It all comes to this: It’s not the seconds equipment will save you; it’s the minutes a good aerodynamic position and proper training will.”
How much will you spend on your first triathlon bike? Generally speaking, prices for entry-level racing bikes range from $900 to $1,400. Of course, the sky’s the limit on how much you can spend (if your bank account can handle it), but spending more than $1,400 is risky for two reasons:
1. You might not know what you need.
2. You might think you know what you need, but you might be wrong.
Does that mean you should go the other way and get the cheapest two-wheeler you see on the dealer floor? No. Although the frugal side of you might want to buy the cheapest Wal-Mart special you can find, you’ll likely find it to be less than what you need. Better to buy the most bike you can afford and be able to train and race with comfortably, than have to start all over a few months down the road.
Step 2: Don’t Forget Accessories
One common mistake is excluding accessories from the budget. Earmark $300 to $500 for accessories, more if you intend to purchase optional equipment such as an aerodynamic disk, tri-spoke, or deep-rim wheel. Some of the more basic bicycle accessories include the following:
- Frame pump
- Patch kit
- Spare tubes
- Helmet
- Clothing (shorts, jerseys, jacket)
- Gloves
- Cycling shoes (optional)
- Clipless pedals (optional)
- Aerobars (optional, but highly recommended)
- Computer (optional)
- Sunglasses (optional)
As you can imagine, your $900 bicycle purchase can run well into four figures with the addition of these or other accessories. Is all this stuff really necessary? Most of it is. You can’t race without a helmet, and you need the additional comfort and safety that cycling shorts, jerseys, gloves, and the other necessities afford you.
If you intend to transport your bicycle in your car, a roof-mounted bicycle rack can run you well over $500. A less expensive alternative is a trunk-mounted rack. Still cheaper is taking the wheels off your bike and throwing it in the back seat or trunk.
In recent years, many bicycle manufacturers have included clipless pedals, contraptions that attach your shoes to the bike for an efficient, more comfortable pedal stroke, as basic equipment on entry-level road bike models. This addition will save you close to $150 that you might have earmarked for this accessory. (If the bicycle you’re interested in doesn’t include clipless pedals, it’s time to start negotiating with your dealer.) Though many people fear being attached to a bicycle with clipless pedals, you can get out of the pedals at any time simply by extending your heel outward.
Cycling shoes are designed for use with clipless pedals. Cycling shoes are stiff and transfer energy more directly to the bicycle than do rubber pedals or toe straps. Cycling shoes vary widely in price, from $100 on the low end to more than $200.
Aerobars help you slice through the wind. Better aerodynamics with aerobars increases your speed and helps you save energy for the run. As you train for longer distances, this accessory will definitely fall out of the “optional” category and into the “mandatory” list.
Speed Demon Fact
If you recall, Greg Lemond’s historic victory in the 1989 Tour de France came as a direct result of the performance advantage of his triathlon aerobars. Wind tunnel testing has shown an estimated average time savings of five minutes during an Olympic-distance bike leg (40K) when a cyclist maintains an aerodynamic position on aerobars. Other studies have shown that cyclists in a proper aerodynamic position are more relaxed and experience decreased heart rates.
Step 3: Understand the Choices and Know What You Need
Purchase a good racing bicycle that is versatile and durable. Buying an entry-level racing bike that is upgradable can save you time and money in the long term. For example, pioneering duathlete Ken Souza’s first duathlon bicycle was a Nishiki International he bought in 1982 for a scant $175. Though the bicycle served its initial purpose, it was a touring model (a bicycle designed primarily for casual riding) that Souza quickly outgrew. Yet the pioneering athlete who put duathlons on the map continued to pour money into a pocket full of holes. “It was ironic. I was spending all this money trying to upgrade, trying to save a few dollars by not buying a racing bike. I could have bought a real racing bike sooner if I hadn’t tried so hard to upgrade a bike that wasn’t worth it.” So Souza’s experience makes an important distinction—find a good upgradeable bicycle, but just be sure it’s something that’s worth upgrading over a reasonable period of time, You may very well outgrow an entry-level bicycle, but try and find something that will last you for as long as possible.
Souza’s solution to his novice woes was one that you might want to consider if the opportunity arises: “I bought a used racing bike—a Vitus carbon fiber—from ex-pro Mark Montgomery. I think that’s one of the smartest things a beginner can do. You’ll get top-of-the-line gear, you can get a great deal, and it’s usually not beat up.”
