Having the right bike for you and having it dialed in can make a lot of difference.  It will make the ride performance better all around.  It can also help prevent injuries associated with cycling and cycling position.  This excellent excerpt from Triathlon Workout Planner by John Mora reprinted with permission from Human Kinetics.

Selecting a bike

"If you’ve only recently been bitten by the triathlon bug, the very first, most obvious symptom is an inexplicable need to visit the nearest bicycle shop. Once you’re there, your symptoms might progress toward writing out a check for a thousand bucks, or worse, taking out the plastic. Hold on there. You might not need to shell out four figures at this point.

If you currently own a bicycle and just want to finish your first triathlon, you might be able to get by with what you have until you’re sure you’ll be a lifelong multisport maniac. It’s not uncommon for beginners to use a beat-up old road bike or a fat-tire mountain bike for their first event, and there’s nothing wrong with that. However, if you don’t have a bicycle (or can’t borrow one), then you have no alternative but to look into buying a triathlon bicycle. Also, if you’ve done a few triathlons and are looking for some advice on making your first serious multisport bicycle purchase, the following sections provide some guidance for you.

Tri-Bikes, Step by Step

Making your entry into the complicated world of cycling equipment can be expensive and intimidating. Somewhere among the fancy designs, shiny components, and black rubber is what you need. Without some basic knowledge, a good understanding of your current needs, and a clear vision of what lurks on your triathlon horizon, there’s a strong chance that you’ll purchase the wrong bicycle.

Fear not. Here’s a step-by-step guide to making that first big multisport purchase, with advice from triathlon bicycle dealers, manufacturers, and coaches. Add to that some tales of woe from professionals who can tell you (through their experience) what not to do when you’re making that big purchase, and you have no reason to panic.

Step 1: Set a Budget

Walking into a bicycle shop with no plan can mean walking away with no money. Although most bike dealers will not deliberately take advantage of an eager first-time buyer, by setting a budget you are taking the first step toward controlling a situation that might seem uncontrollable.

A cautionary word about overemphasizing equipment is warranted. “Your best bet is buying a reasonably priced, entry-level bike with a clip-on aero bar,” says cycling coach Bob Langan. “It all comes to this: It’s not the seconds equipment will save you; it’s the minutes a good aerodynamic position and proper training will.”

How much will you spend on your first triathlon bike? Generally speaking, prices for entry-level racing bikes range from $900 to $1,400. Of course, the sky’s the limit on how much you can spend (if your bank account can handle it), but spending more than $1,400 is risky for two reasons:

1. You might not know what you need.

2. You might think you know what you need, but you might be wrong.

Does that mean you should go the other way and get the cheapest two-wheeler you see on the dealer floor? No. Although the frugal side of you might want to buy the cheapest Wal-Mart special you can find, you’ll likely find it to be less than what you need. Better to buy the most bike you can afford and be able to train and race with comfortably, than have to start all over a few months down the road.

Step 2: Don’t Forget Accessories

One common mistake is excluding accessories from the budget. Earmark $300 to $500 for accessories, more if you intend to purchase optional equipment such as an aerodynamic disk, tri-spoke, or deep-rim wheel. Some of the more basic bicycle accessories include the following:

• Frame pump
• Patch kit
• Spare tubes
• Helmet
• Clothing (shorts, jerseys, jacket)
• Gloves
• Cycling shoes (optional)
• Clipless pedals (optional)
• Aerobars (optional, but highly recommended)
• Computer (optional)
• Sunglasses (optional)

As you can imagine, your $900 bicycle purchase can run well into four figures with the addition of these or other accessories. Is all this stuff really necessary? Most of it is. You can’t race without a helmet, and you need the additional comfort and safety that cycling shorts, jerseys, gloves, and the other necessities afford you.

If you intend to transport your bicycle in your car, a roof-mounted bicycle rack can run you well over $500. A less expensive alternative is a trunk-mounted rack. Still cheaper is taking the wheels off your bike and throwing it in the back seat or trunk.

In recent years, many bicycle manufacturers have included clipless pedals, contraptions that attach your shoes to the bike for an efficient, more comfortable pedal stroke, as basic equipment on entry-level road bike models. This addition will save you close to $150 that you might have earmarked for this accessory. (If the bicycle you’re interested in doesn’t include clipless pedals, it’s time to start negotiating with your dealer.) Though many people fear being attached to a bicycle with clipless pedals, you can get out of the pedals at any time simply by extending your heel outward.

Cycling shoes are designed for use with clipless pedals. Cycling shoes are stiff and transfer energy more directly to the bicycle than do rubber pedals or toe straps. Cycling shoes vary widely in price, from $100 on the low end to more than $200.

Aerobars help you slice through the wind. Better aerodynamics with aerobars increases your speed and helps you save energy for the run. As you train for longer distances, this accessory will definitely fall out of the “optional” category and into the “mandatory” list.

Speed Demon Fact

If you recall, Greg Lemond’s historic victory in the 1989 Tour de France came as a direct result of the performance advantage of his triathlon aerobars. Wind tunnel testing has shown an estimated average time savings of five minutes during an Olympic-distance bike leg (40K) when a cyclist maintains an aerodynamic position on aerobars. Other studies have shown that cyclists in a proper aerodynamic position are more relaxed and experience decreased heart rates.

Step 3: Understand the Choices and Know What You Need

Purchase a good racing bicycle that is versatile and durable. Buying an entry-level racing bike that is upgradable can save you time and money in the long term. For example, pioneering duathlete Ken Souza’s first duathlon bicycle was a Nishiki International he bought in 1982 for a scant $175. Though the bicycle served its initial purpose, it was a touring model (a bicycle designed primarily for casual riding) that Souza quickly outgrew. Yet the pioneering athlete who put duathlons on the map continued to pour money into a pocket full of holes. “It was ironic. I was spending all this money trying to upgrade, trying to save a few dollars by not buying a racing bike. I could have bought a real racing bike sooner if I hadn’t tried so hard to upgrade a bike that wasn’t worth it.” So Souza’s experience makes an important distinction—find a good upgradeable bicycle, but just be sure it’s something that’s worth upgrading over a reasonable period of time, You may very well outgrow an entry-level bicycle, but try and find something that will last you for as long as possible.

Souza’s solution to his novice woes was one that you might want to consider if the opportunity arises: “I bought a used racing bike—a Vitus carbon fiber—from ex-pro Mark Montgomery. I think that’s one of the smartest things a beginner can do. You’ll get top-of-the-line gear, you can get a great deal, and it’s usually not beat up.”

Muscles Involved
Primary: Erector spinae
Secondary: Splenius capitis, gluteus maximus, deltoid

Cycling Focus

The erector spinae muscles must withstand enduring workloads when riding a bike. For the majority of rides, these muscles will maintain a forward leaning posture. If the back becomes sore or fatigued, the erector spinae muscles are usually the culprit. The stability ball extension is particularly effective because it provides full range of motion at maximal extension. This will counter the hours spent with the back arched forward on the bike. Added weights are not needed to make this workout effective. Remember that stretching and moving muscles through their complete range of motion will help get the most out of muscle fibers."

This is an excellent excerpt reprinted from Burke's book with permission with permission from Human Kinetics, High-Tech Cycling-2nd Edition.

"Human physiology is affected in different ways at high altitude. In general, the various systems of the human body—pulmonary, cardiovascular, endocrine, skeletal muscles—respond and adjust in an effort to provide enough oxygen to survive in the hypoxic environment of high altitude. Some of these life-supporting physiological responses may also enhance athletic performance, particularly in endurance sports.

Hematological
The scientific rationale for using altitude training for the enhancement of aerobic performance is based on the body’s response to changes in the partial pressure of inspired oxygen (PIO2) and the partial pressure of oxygen in the arterial blood (PaO2). PIO2 at sea level is equal to 149 mmHg. At Mexico City (2300 m, 7544 ft), PIO2 drops to approximately 123 mmHg. At the summit of Mt. Everest (8852 m, 29,035 ft), PIO2 is approximately 50 mmHg or only about 30% of sea level PIO2.

Dave Scott, who is a six time IronMan World Champion, and active.com show some of his favorite stretches in this video. They include stretches for your glutes, hip flexor, piriformis, hamstring, quad and shoulder girdle.

Enjoy and remember to check out the resources page with other great videos. Our online store offer terrific videos as well.